Understanding Sunscreens | FAQ

I'm a strong advocate of sun protection. It is part of my patient education in the field of aesthetics especially amongst people who wanted to get rid of their sun spots, dark spots, melasma, or other related aesthetic issues. While lasers and IPL therapies can help address sun spots, they cannot prevent reoccurrence; thus I can't stress enough sunscreen and other sun protection measures. The pathogenesis of melasma is not clearly understood; while it can be traced to genetics and hormones, sun exposure triggers overproduction of melanocytes, the cells responsible for melanin. There are many resources available on the internet when it comes to sunscreens and sun protections; there are differing opinions as to which offers the best form of protection thus I felt compelled to share my opinion. As always, my point of view should not replace your doctor's. Do your research and settle for the one that conforms to your lifestyle.

Is it true that the higher the SPF, the more protected you are? No. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends at least SPF 30 which blocks about 97% of UV rays. There is no proof that higher SPFs can block 100% of UV rays or that you can stay out longer. The single most important thing to remember about sunscreen is REAPPLICATION every two hours (if staying out longer in the sun) or each time you get wet or sweaty. 

What's the difference between UVA and UVB? UVA (aging rays) has the longest wavelength and can penetrate the skin's deeper layer. It contributes to photo damage (premature wrinkling), aging and immediate tanning. UVB (burning rays) has medium wavelength and is the main culprit to sunburn. Both UV rays contribute to melanoma or skin cancer.

I work in the office, do I still need to apply sunscreen? Yes. UV rays penetrate glass and windows. While some can filter UVB, you are still exposed to UVA rays. You drive going to the office, you walk going to the office, all these things contribute to sun exposure.

My makeup has SPF 20, do I still need to apply sunscreen? Yes. Unless you apply a dollop of makeup or 1 oz (shot glass) to exposed areas which is the recommendation to get adequate protection, then by all means you need to apply a separate sunscreen.

What kind of sunscreen should I use? cream, lotion, spray, stick? If you have dry skin, use cream-based. For oily and combination, use lotion. For small areas such as around the eyes, use stick. Personally, I avoid spray type because it is hard to configure whether you have applied enough. Sunscreen should be broad spectrum so you can get protection from both UVA and UVB.

How much sunscreen should I apply? The most common mistake people do is under-application, meaning we apply less than the standard recommendation. For my face, I do apply a dollop and for all other exposed body areas, at least an ounce or equivalent to one shot glass.

Which is better, physical sunscreen or chemical sunscreen? Physical sunscreen (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) blocks the UV rays. There is no need to wait for 15 minutes before going out. However, it is deemed to be not cosmetically appealing because it's harder to blend and leaves a white cast. Chemical sunscreen absorb UV rays which prevents it from penetrating the skin. It typically combines ingredients such as avobenzone, oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate to maintain its stability. The ingredients in chemical sunscreen are generally safe although there have been reported incidence of irritation (including myself). Bottomline, it all boils down to personal preference.

So what's my favorite sunscreen to-date? Hands down, those physical sunscreens from eltaMD. I prefer the tinted version UV Elements SPF 44 because it has titanium dioxide and zinc oxide plus sodium hyaluronate for hydration. I use the sheer version SPF 45 for my neck, ears and other exposed body areas. Don't forget your lips, currently I am loving Lather's unscented lip balm which has broad spectrum SPF 15.

An InLinkz Link-up